And without images to boot! It’s a really simple concept.. simple enough that I think I can get away without showing all of the actual steps. There are however three things I find absolutely critical to making this fast and easy.
1) Shirring/gathering foot for my serger. Yes, I do have a super fancy expensive serger, but even if I didn’t, so long as your serger has differential feed (most newer sergers do) the ruffling part is super easy to do (and fast!!). The shirring/gathering foot is worth the $30-40 it will set you back - TRUST me! It has uses beyond just this, though simple gathered clothing is probably most of what I do with it.

How it works, is that your non-ruffled fabric goes through the top guide, and your fabric to be gathered goes under the foot. Set your differential feed to somewhere between 1.5 and 2 depending on how much ruffling you want (mine is normally set to 2), and serge away. The bottom material is gathered and automatically sewn to the top layer. It’s important to pay attention as you work up through the tiers, that you don’t accidentally serge over previously ruffled portions - they tend to want to fold up underneath your work, so checking often to make sure the older stuff is out of the way is really important. I’ve learned that the hard way.. more than once!
You can do the gathering by hand, but when there’s this much of it to do (the green/pink skirt in my previous post had almost 15 yards of material to gather), that quickly becomes incredibly tedious and aggravating.
2) Narrow edge foot for my sewing machine. I easily use this thing as much as my regular foot on my sewing machine. It’s almost impossible to top stitch close to an edge without it.. at least if you want to do it evenly. Ignore the fact that I have a different thread color in my machine, and no double needle.. but this shows the foot and how I align it while I sew. I use this foot almost any time I do topstitching.. because I almost always have an edge or a seam to use for alignment, and it takes all the thinking/struggling out of it. There is a metal “blade” through the middle of the foot that is used as a guide. I can change the alignment of the needle on my machine when I am topstitching, and most machines allow some similar adjustment (or have a stitch setting that is already adjusted for you.. even my bottom of the line Elna had one).

3) Double needle for top stitching. Fairly self explanatory, no? I like the double top-stitched look, some don’t, and that’s fine.. but the narrow edge foot with the double needle makes getting that double top-stitching perfect super easy. I prefer the 2mm wide ones.. the 4mm seems to be almost too wide for everything I want to do. Sometimes I think a 3mm would be perfect, but I don’t think they make those.

Now, onto how to actually construct the ruffled skirt. I start by figuring out how long I want to make it… I like 3 tier skirts with an exrta narrow ruffle at the bottom, so I divide the length I want by 3. SO if I wanted a 15″ skirt, each main tier will be about 5″ wide. For the top one, I add 1 -1.5″ to allow for the waistband casing, depending on the width of elastic I plan to use (I normally use 3/4″ and will add 1″ for the casing). When you consider you are losing some length in seam allowances, you don’t really need to figure in the final narrow ruffle into the length… it just magically works out.
I usually cut that top tier first, with the length is about 2x the waist measurement… usually with little kids, if you are using 38″ gauze or 44″ wide quilting cotton, just using that length is fine. For adults you would want to measure and try to get fairly close. If you were using 58″ wide fabric and had a 32″ waist for example, you’d probably be fine with one width of fabric.. but you’d need to use more than one length if you were using 44″ wide fabric.
Each tier after that is twice as long as the one before it. So I’ll cut 2 lengths of fabric 5″ wide, and then 4 more that are 5″ wide, and then 8 that are about 1.5″ wide. If you want to make your skirt different colors, you can cut each of those tiers in a different color.
I construct the skirt from the bottom up. I sew the 8 1.5″ wide strips together, making a really long strip (if you are using a fabric with no “right” side to make it easy to keep track, make sure all of your seams end up on the same side). Then I’ll hem one edge - I normally do a rolled hem, either on my serger if I want to make it quickly, or I’ll use the narrow rolled hem foot on my sewing machine to fold and stitch down the hem if I want a slightly more polished look.
Then, I sew the 4 5″ wide strips together, and using my serger and the shirring foot, I’ll sew the long 1.5″ wide strip I’ve previously sewn together and hemmed, onto the shorter 5″ wide strip (that one goes on top, the 1.5″ wide strip goes on the bottom, make sure right sides are together, with the hemmed side on the left), gathering as I go. Usually I come out at the end within a few inches of the ends of both of them.. sometimes I don’t, and that’s okay, there’s enough extra material involved that it’s pretty forgiving.
Following what I did with the 4 strips, I sew the next 2 together, and then using my serger and my shirring foot, sew the longer strip with the now attached narrow ruffle, to the shorter 5″ wide strip. Then I repeat that with the wider top tier strip and the work already completed.
Then, I’ll trim the edges so that everything is even, and then seam the sides together, so that the skirt forms a circle. Then I’ll normally serge the top edge to finish it, I’ll measure and cut a piece of elastic to fit, sew the ends together, and then fold the top of the skirt over on the inside and stitch the elastic into a casing.
Maybe next time I make one of these I’ll take some pictures along the way.. but it really is very simple.